This is the concluding part of a four-part series on Iraqi Kurdistan. If you haven’t read the preceding parts and would like to do so please click on the title of my blog to be referred to the archives. Alternatively you can just read this as a stand-alone piece. ‘Kirkuk! Kirkuk! Kirkuk!’ It was 7am […]

Human beings can be truly abominable creatures. As if you need to be convinced or reminded of that let me tell you the story behind the Amna Suraka (Red Security) Museum in Sulaymaniyah, northern Iraq. The museum is housed in a former Baathist intelligence headquarters and prison and it is here where Saddam Hussein’s henchmen […]

The Department of State warns U.S. citizens against all but essential travel to Iraq given the security situation. Travel within Iraq remains dangerous. This Travel Warning replaces the Travel Warning dated January 19, 2012, to update information on security incidents and to remind U.S. citizens of ongoing security concerns for U.S. citizens in Iraq, including […]

Oh foes who watch us, the nation whose language is Kurdish is alive It cannot be defeated by makers of weapons of any time Let no one say the Kurds are dead, the Kurds are alive The Kurds are alive and their flag will never fall We are the sons of the red colour of […]

Fear is not an inbuilt instinct but rather something we learn as we get older. Now that I’m an adult I worry about all kinds of shit – trivial shit, heavy existential shit and everything in between. At the age of 26 I find myself plagued by a host of abstract anxieties. But I was […]

Next month Turkish Airlines will convey me via Istanbul to the mountains of Kurdistan in northern Iraq. I’ve got to admit I didn’t see this coming; never anticipated I’d be starting off the year 2013 deep in one of the most politically volatile countries on the planet. You’ll notice that I’ve already exposed my ignorance […]

Sometimes I’ve got to get away. Like now. Stuck in England with the November blues. Unemployed. Living in a squalid cupboard in my parents’ poky bungalow because I can’t afford to rent. I’m literally living out of a suitcase because I have nowhere else to put my stuff. My car is falling apart, with more […]